Barely a drumbeat away from the Galleria, Taiko thumps out the rhythms of Japanese specialties that have prove most percussively popular with western palates. Unlike the traditional taiko drums for which it is named, the new restaurant and its repertoire are sounding unbeatable for both quality and variety. In a lively atmosphere with decor weaving design elements emanating from both traditional and contemporary Japan, Taiko's chefs and kitchens draw upon the remarkably varied, yet highly disciplined, techniques essential to Japanese cuisine. Combine the art of the beautiful with the science of the fresh, Taiko's sushi chefs create the delights of the delicious in the form of nigiri sushi, sashimi, hand rolls, cut rolls and such signature creations as the Sumo Roll of assorted fish wrapped with thinly sliced cucumber skin, the Popeye Roll with boiled spinach and shiitake mushroom, and the Lobster Tempura Roll starring lobster delicately fried in a lacy rice-flour batter. From the kitchen come the noodle and rice dishes that are both fun and fundamental standards. Super-fresh fish and seafoods that slip through the sushi chef's net get caught up in such dishes as salmon, tuna, or shrimp teriyaki. Lobster lovers will find several intriguing innovations adding exquisite Japanese touches. The hibachi dinners apply a little showbiz to the teppan yaki technique of cooking on a flat, griddle-like hotplate. The options include steaks or chicken for carnivores, prawns, lobster or fish for seafoodies, and tofu with vegetable for vegetarians. By the way, anyone who has visited Japan knows first-hand that children are treated with particular regard and affection. Thus it should come as no surprise that, as proclaimed on its menu, "Taiko loves kids," and children under 10 years old can get a steak or chicken entree along with soup, salad, shrimp appetizer, hibachi vegetable, steamed rice and ice cream. Perhaps more expected is Taiko's deference to its business clientele. Busy business folk who can't wait for dinner can enjoy lunch options that are not only fast, but so exciting that they can make the anticipating heart beat like, well, a taiko drum.